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Stories in South Dakota

What’s in this Season?

South Dakota’s ever-changing seasons serve up immeasurable discoveries in nature. Explore what’s happening in nature this season.

A hiker walks through the woods in fall color.
Autumn Hiking along a trail in fall color. © Ben Herndon
Fall color in Theodore Roosevelt National Park.
North Dakota Fall color at Theodore Roosevelt National Park. © Mark Staples/TNC

Autumn is a season of change in South Dakota. Migrating birds flee to warmer climates. Hoofed mammals shift into their breeding season, activating the “rut.” And South Dakota’s tree canopy turns from its summertime green to a kaleidoscope of yellow, red, orange and brown. Don’t hesitate to get outside and enjoy nature’s signs of change—this season won’t last long.  

Fall Color

The spectacular fall colors arrive in South Dakota in late September and continue throughout October.

Many of those colors have been present in leaves during the entire growing season but masked by chlorophyll, the light-absorbing green pigment that is essential for photosynthesis. When the days shorten in the fall, photosynthesis slows and eventually ceases, causing deciduous trees to stop making chlorophyll and allowing other pigments in leaves to become visible. Carotenoids are the pigments responsible for yellows, oranges and browns; anthocyanins create reds and purples; and mixes of the two pigments result in bronzes and deeper shades of orange.  

Fall color canopy viewed from below.
Autumn A forest in fall color. © Kent Mason

Location, weather and type of tree determine when this color change takes place. Cooler locations are where the transition begins, causing trees at higher elevations to change color first. However, timing can change from year to year, influenced by temperature and rainfall. Drought causes less brilliant colors and trees in dry years drop their leaves earlier. At any one location, tree species also determine fall color. Ashes are known for their early color change. Aspens, cottonwoods and maples often follow, and oaks change color later. Evergreens, of course, don’t change color or drop their needles, causing the dark greens of the Black Hills’ pines to contrast vividly with deciduous trees in October.

The Rut

Fall is the season of courtship for many mammals in South Dakota. Their offspring do best if born soon after winter has ended, when they have time to grow before the return of harsh weather. This fall breeding season for hoofed mammals is called the rut. This is the time of year when antlers and horns become essential—males use their headgear to compete for females and spectacular clashes can occur. 

A pronghorn running.
Pronghorn Running A pronghorn runs across the landscape during the rut. © Duke Coonrad/TNC Photo Contest 2022

Pronghorn

The rut begins at different times in the fall for different animals. Pronghorn are among the first; their rut begins in mid-September and can last well into October.

Pronghorn have horns, which are different than antlers because they are not shed. Horns have a bony core that is covered with a nail-like sheath; in pronghorns, that sheath is formed by fused hair that grows to become the outermost tips of the horn. Both males and females have horns, but a female’s horns are much smaller.

The horns are mostly for show but can become weapons if two males are closely matched. Bucks establish territories in March, long before the rut begins. They select the best grazing lands that will attract many does—a harem that they will defend against other males in September. Usually, all that is needed is a snort, a stare, or a brief chase to discourage a potential rival. But animals of similar fitness may come to blows, clashing their horns until one leaves. Young males or old bucks past their prime are rarely able to claim a harem.

Two bighorn rams chase a ewe.
Bighorn Battle Two male Bighorn sheep battle for the attention of a female. © Angela Goin/TNC Photo Contest 2021

Bighorn sheep

In November, bighorn sheep undertake their rut. Bighorn sheep are among the last to breed and the competition between rams for ewes can make for spectacular wildlife watching. 

Bighorn sheep horns grow incrementally year to year, and older rams can have an impressive pair. One record-setting ram had horns that were each more than 45 inches long and greater than 16 inches in circumference at their base. Ewes have horns too, but they are slender, and so short they do not extend for more than a half-circle.

Rams and ewes keep apart until fall: the rams in bachelor herds and the ewes with their lambs in larger nursery herds. By October, these two groups begin to intermingle and soon the rams are competing for mates. Smaller rams give way to the older males, but more evenly matched males do not yield without a fight. Battling males gradually approach each other until 30 or 40 feet apart when they simultaneously rear up on their hind legs then lunge forward to collide head-on. The loud crack of their smacking horns can be heard a mile away on a calm day. The dazed rams pause, recover, then repeat the charge. The contest can continue for hours, ending only when one of the rams yields.  

Bighorn sheep once numbered 2 million across the western U.S., from Canada to Mexico. But overhunting, habitat loss and competition with livestock drove their numbers down to just 20,000. Today, bighorn sheep populations have rebounded to around 70,000—thanks to reintroduction efforts in national parks and beyond. These animals like to roam widely, so large, connected habitats are critical for the species’ survival. 

Here in South Dakota, about 250 bighorn can be found roaming Badlands National Park. They were extirpated from the area but reintroduced in 1922, and can often be seen right from your car as you’re driving through the park.

Waterfowl Migration

 South Dakota’s Prairie Coteau region is known as the “duck factory of the world.” The region is dotted with small prairie ponds called potholes that were formed when glaciers covered this landscape.

Hundreds of snow geese in flight.
SNOW GEESE Snow geese in migration. © Michael McAuliffe
A wood duck swims in water that reflects fall color around it.
WOOD DUCK A wood duck surrounded by reflected colors of fall leaves. © Jeff Goudy /TNC Photo Contest 2018
SNOW GEESE Snow geese in migration. © Michael McAuliffe
WOOD DUCK A wood duck surrounded by reflected colors of fall leaves. © Jeff Goudy /TNC Photo Contest 2018

Ducks and geese are excellent subjects for beginning birders since they often are easily seen on open water, unlike small songbirds that can be hidden behind leaves. Most have distinctive field marks and behaviors that can be quickly recognized with practice.

Grab a field guide and binoculars and look for waterfowl at wetlands such as Sand Lake National Wildlife Refuge. The Wildlife Drive Auto Route closes for the season at dusk on October 14, but the Migration Observation Area remains open and is a good spot for watching the thousands of snow geese that visit the refuge in the fall. Sandhill cranes are another impressive bird that migrates through the state in the fall. Listen for their bugling calls then look for their flocks often flying past high overhead.

Places to Visit

  • Two pronghorn.

    Wind Cave National Park

    Pronghorn can be found within this Black Hills park. Check it out in the early fall to see if you can observe their rut. If not, stop by to see South Dakota’s beautiful fall colors! Explore.

  • View of a prairie at dusk.

    Prairie Coteau

    The Prairie Coteau region is a hotspot for migrating waterfowl. Stop by any of TNC’s preserves in eastern South Dakota for a chance to see why they call this the “duck factory of the world.” Explore.

  • A bighorn sheep at dusk.

    Badlands National Park

    About 250 bighorn sheep can be seen wandering Badlands National Park. Explore during the rut for a chance to see a spectacular clash! Explore.

A buck deer in the snow.
Winter In the winter, deer browse on mostly white pine and white cedar. © Dominique Braud/TNC Photo Contest 2022

Winter in South Dakota is cold and snowy, but that should not keep you from exploring the outdoors! The trails are quiet and chances are, you may be the only one braving the elements. Embrace the solitude and soak in the mental health benefits the snowy plains and icy ponds have to offer. Bundle up and grab your snowshoes. There is so much going on in nature even on the chilliest days.

Birds

Winter is the best time for birding because there are no leaves on the trees. It makes spotting birds much easier. Although many birds flee South Dakota during the cold winter months, we have some year-round resident birds that you can surely spot around the state, like American Goldfinch, woodpeckers and blue jays. You could even see a Northern shrike, which visits the Dakotas in the winter, returning to northern Canada to nest in the summer. These birds are fierce hunters. Shrikes attack and kill a variety of prey: other birds, mice, lizards, insects; at times even tackling prey larger than themselves (a shrike is about the size of a robin). They kill using their hooked beak; their feet are too weak to kill with grasping talons like hawks and owls. A shrike might not eat its prey immediately. Instead, the bird carries its prey to a larder where it will store food items impaled on barbed wire, thorns, broken twigs, or simply wedged into the fork of two branches. Sighting a shrike could be difficult. In the winter, you might first find evidence of shrike predation—dead sparrows or mice skewered on thorns or barbed wire—before spotting a shrike hunting nearby.

Occasionally, South Dakota sees snowy owls, visiting all the way from Alaska, Arctic Canada and Greenland. Their plumage reflects their northern home: the birds are white as snow, although females and young birds are barred with black. Their face is always bright white and highlights their brilliant yellow eyes.

Bison

Much of South Dakota’s wildlife either migrates or hibernates to escape the harsh winter. But bison seem to thrive in the cold. They’re animals built for life on the prairie year-round. Visitors to parks and preserves with bison herds enjoy watching bulls, cows and calves mingling together during the summer months. Come late fall, the bulls wander off to form “bachelor bands” and the cows, calves and non-breeding bulls stay together in small herds. These dispersed, separate groups make for fewer animals looking for food in the same place once winter snows make forage hard to find. It’s a good survival strategy.  

A bison covered with snow.
Frosty Bison The thick winter coat sported by bison means these animals are built to withstand the harsh winters of the plains. © Chris Burke /TNC Photo Contest 2021

Bison eat less in the winter. Their metabolism actually slows, allowing them to survive on less forage. Using powerful neck muscles, bison swing their massive heads to push snow out of their way to reach forage beneath. Bison also are good at staying warm. Their summer coat turns dark brown in the fall and develops a dense undercoat of woolly hair that provides insulation during cold weather. Guard hairs provide added protection and are longest on the front half of a bison’s body, covering the head, neck, forelimbs and tall hump above the shoulders. The winter coat on a bull bison can be as much as six inches thick over the hump. During a storm, bison turn and face into the wind, causing these long hairs to lie down against the body, maximizing their insulating ability. Their winter coat insulates so well that a storm’s snow simply accumulates on the animals, unable to be melted by their body heat.

Wildlife Detective

Winter’s snows provide the perfect chance to flex and grow your wildlife tracking skills. From the common hoofprints of white-tailed deer to the distinct paw prints of coyotes, you never know whose tracks you’ll spot in the snow throughout TNC's preserves.

A single pawprint of a coyote in the snow.
An adult coyote in the snow.
Two deer in the snow.
A red fox leaving tracks in the snow.
Raccoon tracks in the snow.

Places to Visit

There is no shortage of places to experience the natural world in a South Dakota winter, but here are some of our recommendations.

  • Black Hills: The 1.2-million-acre Black Hills National Forest gets more than 150 inches of snow every year. Enjoy the winter wonderland on skis at Terry Peak Ski Area near Deadwood, or ice climbing in Spearfish, or on snowshoes in one of the state parks.

  • Samuel H. Ordway, Jr. Memorial Prairie: Stop by this Nature Conservancy preserve in Leola to try to catch a glimpse of bison enduring the winter.

  • Lake Oahe: Try your hand at ice fishing on Lake Oahe near Pierre. It’s a great way to get outdoors in the chilliest months. 

 

Pasque flowers.
Pasque flower Pasque flowers are some of the first flowers to bloom on the prairie in the spring. © Steve S. Meyer

The signs of spring are always welcome after a long South Dakota winter. From early spring flowers popping up through the snow-crusted prairie to critters frantically seeking a mate, spring is a time for beauty and renewal. Enjoy the trickling waters of a slowly thawing river or lace up your boots for a tromp along a muddy trail. Take time to observe the hints of spring all around you.

Cuteness alert

Spring has sprung when cinnamon-colored baby bison appear on the prairie. 

Most bison calves are born in May and June. Pregnant cows first chase off their offspring from the previous spring: yearlings that stay with the herd but can no longer rely on their mother’s care once a newborn arrives. Shortly before giving birth, a cow will move to the edge of the herd or leave the group altogether. The process takes only about 20 minutes and the calf can stand on its own after another half hour and run with the herd within one to three hours. 

A bison calf and its mother.
Bison on the prairie A Bison calf grazes with its mother at the Niobrara Valley Preserve. © Chris Helzer
A bison calf rests in the grass.
Baby buffalo A bison calf rests in the grass. © Morgan Heim

After their first few weeks, young bison become more adventurous and may wander away from their mothers to explore the herd. They often form nursery groups: two to three dozen calves that are tended by a few cows. This is a good time to watch the young animals – bison watchers can see them learn from their mothers, begin to graze and sort out who is dominant in their groups.  

Early blooms

The pasque flower is one of the first flowers to bloom on South Dakota’s grasslands. You may even see it blooming out of the melting snow. Pasque flowers thrive on prairies with sandy soils, like TNC’s Sioux Prairie. Nature writer Aldo Leopold wrote in A Sand County Almanac, “The chance to find a pasque flower is a right as inalienable as free speech.” Find a pasque flower and know unquestionably that spring has arrived on the prairie.  

Pasque flowers.
Pasque Flower The pasque flower is one of the first to bloom, often coming up while snow is still on the ground. © Matt Fisher/TNC

Spectacular courtship

The courting displays of sharp-tailed grouse are fascinating to watch in the spring. These chicken-like birds gather at a lek, a patch of ground where males compete for the attention of hens by performing a dance display at dawn. Dancing grouse spread their wings, lower their heads and raise the short, bright yellow feathers above their eyes.   

A sharp tailed grouse performing its mating dance.
Sharp-tailed grouse The male Sharp-tailed Grouse display to attract females on communal dancing grounds, called leks. © Rick Bohn of USFWS

The tail is raised and spread like a fan and the birds rush forward or turn in tight circles, rapidly stamping their feet and rattling their tail feathers. The males inflate and deflate prominent purple neck sacs, cooing and cackling. They also fight—within the lek, each bird has a small territory. These territories are hotly contested, as hens may prefer males in some locations over others. 

Prairie dogs get busy

In the early spring, prairie dogs become more active. Longer days trigger the start of their mating season after a winter spent mostly in their warm burrows. When mating begins, prairie dogs become aggressive and territorial, chasing off other dogs that intrude onto their coterie, or family unit of one breeding male, a few females and offspring. 

Prairie dogs on a grassland with bison in the background.
Prairie Dwellers Black-tailed prairie dog town with bison in Custer State Park, South Dakota. © Bill Allen

Fights between competing males are not uncommon. The dominant male dog seeks to prevent others from mating with the females in his coterie. Males call to females by making a “chirk” call similar to—but slower—than the predator warning call familiar to prairie dog watchers. Males also help females build their underground nests and dog watchers can see paired animals gathering nesting material and carrying it into their burrows. Mating takes place underground and is rarely seen.   

Places to visit

  • Sioux quartzite lines the creek at Pembina Gorge State Park.

    Palisades State Park

    Enjoy scenic overlooks at this eastern South Dakota State Park. Its deep gorges were formed by the rushing water of Split Rock Creek over millions of years. Explore.

  • Sunset over South Dakota badlands.

    Badlands National Park

    This is a great spot to see prairie dogs. Stop at Robert’s Prairie Dog Town along Badlands Loop Road for a view of the largest colony in the park. Explore.

  • A grassland vista.

    Samuel H. Ordway, Jr. Memorial Prairie

    Stop by this Nature Conservancy preserve in Leola to try and spot newborn bison sprinkled throughout the herd. They’re easy to see with their reddish coat that contrasts the dark brown color of older animals. Explore.

Wild bergamot blooming.
Wild bergamot Wild bergamot in bloom at TNC’s Pigeon Point preserve. © Richard Hamilton Smith

Summer: it’s what makes the South Dakota winter worth it. 

Throughout the season, the state is abloom with wildflowers. Every few weeks a new suite of plants is opening delicate petals to the bees and butterflies seeking out nectar.

If you get out on a hike, whether short and sweet or long and challenging, you’ll see plenty of birds and other wildlife across the state. Everyone is out enjoying the warm weather!

Here’s what else you can discover in nature this summer in South Dakota.

 

Dakota skipper on a purple coneflower.
Dakota skipper The Dakota skipper is one of the rarest butterflies in North America. © Chris Anderson/TNC

Dakota skipper

The Dakota skipper is well-named. This small, stout-bodied butterfly is a powerful flyer that appears to skip rapidly from flower to flower on the Dakota prairies where it can be seen during June and early July—if you can find one. 

The Dakota skipper is one of the rarest butterflies in North America. It once ranged from northeast Illinois to southern Saskatchewan, but now is found mostly in western Minnesota, northeastern South Dakota and eastern North Dakota.  

Mid-June to early July is a good time to look for a Dakota skipper–that is the brief flight period of the adult butterflies that can last up to three weeks. They are tawny-orange to brown butterflies with a one-inch wingspan. Their flight is distinctive: fast wing beats that seem to blur, they move so quickly.  

Close up of pinecones on a ponderosa pine.
Ponderosa Pine The main tree species found in the Black Hills, ponderosa pines are well adapted to their environment. © Lane Ketterman/TNC

Black Hills Plants

Despite the heat, late summer is a great time to visit the Black Hills and explore its unique botanical crossroads. Eastern hardwoods, western coniferous forests, Great Plains grasslands and plants from northern boreal forests can all be found here.

White spruce form dense pockets of forest in the northern regions of the Black Hills. Lichen called “reindeer moss” or “old man’s beard” often hangs from the lower branches of these trees; its long, stringy bluish-green growth make the forest seem lush. Beneath the trees grow ferns, sedges and even club mosses (in a few rare locations), also called “ground pine” or “princess pine.”

Most of the forest in the Black Hills is made up of ponderosa pine, a valuable timber tree that unlike white spruce is tolerant of hot, dry growing conditions. Stands of ponderosa pine cover foothills and ridges in the Black Hills, and in August some may be attacked by mountain pine beetles. These tiny insects bore into a pine and create galleries of tunnels immediately beneath the tree’s bark. The galleries soon become nurseries for beetle larvae that expand the tunnels as they consume wood and grow. The larvae overwinter in the galleries and emerge as adults the following summer, sometimes as swarms of insects that can overwhelm and kill trees. Pines harboring beetles may not be obvious—look for the amber plugs of resin secreted by a tree to seal the boreholes of beetles.

Blazing stars blooming in the prairie.
Blazing star Blazing star in bloom. © Richard Hamilton Smith

Flowers

Summer is also an excellent time to explore South Dakota’s prairies. Late-summer grassland flowering plants include many kinds of composites, or clustered flowers, often called asters or daisies.  

Not all look like the familiar daisy—blazing star is a composite with tiny flowers that form a tall, dense purple spike. An impressive composite that blooms in August is the Maximilian sunflower that can grow eight feet tall with flower heads up to four inches wide. 

Places to visit

  • Two bison stand in a rocky landscape.

    Custer State Park

    This iconic Black Hills park is a great place to explore this region’s stellar plant life. Explore

  • Golden prairie vista.

    Prairie Coteau Preserves

    Try to spot a Dakota skipper at one of our preserves in the Prairie Coteau, like Sioux Prairie, Aurora Prairie or Altamont Prairie. Explore

  • Family of geese on a lake with a pink sky in the background.

    Sand Lake National Wildlife Refuge

    More than 266 species of birds can be found in the refuge’s 21,000+ acres of potholes and prairies. Explore