Women & Allies in Climate

Meet Jill Heinerth

Global cave diver Jill Heinerth is still exploring—this time in her backyard.

By Andi Cross, Edges of Earth

A woman in dive gear emerging from the water.
World Class Diver Diving with Jill Heinerth in Lake Ontario. © Adam Moore

The Ottawa River is easy to misread. Its dark, tea-colored water often suggests poor conditions to the untrained eye. But according to pioneering cave diver Jill Heinerth, it’s a sign of something far more important. “The color of this water tells you everything,” she says, examining a freshwater mussel she pulled from below the surface. “This is a healthy, functioning ecosystem.”

Heinerth—who besides being one of the world’s most accomplished cave divers is also a member of the Women & Allies in Climate Network—has spent decades exploring some of the planet’s most extreme and least understood underwater environments. She has navigated everything from inside an Antarctic iceberg to submerged cave systems in the desert.

These are places so remote and so challenging, that few humans have ever seen them. And that access is the entire point: Heinerth reaches freshwater ecosystems that most scientists cannot physically get to, documents what lives below, and turns her findings into hard evidence needed to protect these waters before they’re lost. 

Heinerth has built a robust career as a filmmaker, author, photographer, and science communicator. Her contributions to exploration and conservation storytelling have earned international recognition, including being named the first Explorer-in-Residence for the Royal Canadian Geographical Society and receiving the Sir Christopher Ondaatje Medal for Exploration. Into the Planet, her own memoir, offers a firsthand account of a life spent navigating what she often calls the “veins of the Earth,” or the flooded cave systems that move freshwater beneath the planet’s surface.

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A woman with an orange life preserver standing at the end of a dock.
Backyard Jill Heinerth has travelled around the world to dive extreme conditions, and now she’s doing so in her own backyard. © Adam Moore
A hand holding out a trading card with an illustration of Jill Heinerth.
Explorer Jill Heinerth is one of the most impressive divers in the world, having documented places most will never go. © Andi Cross
Backyard Jill Heinerth has travelled around the world to dive extreme conditions, and now she’s doing so in her own backyard. © Adam Moore
Explorer Jill Heinerth is one of the most impressive divers in the world, having documented places most will never go. © Andi Cross

Despite working at the outer edges of exploration, and in a field historically dominated by men, Heinerth has carved out a unique role. She moves between disciplines, collaborating closely with scientists while maintaining an independent voice rooted in exploration, communication, and conservation. And, she’s constantly on track to empower the next generation of women divers to expand on their skills and move into the technical realm. But now, her focus is turning toward a place she has always called home.

Today, Heinerth has turned her attention toward a hidden freshwater cave system tucked within the forests of Ontario’s Whitewater Region, where the Ottawa River disappears underground through a labyrinth of submerged passageways. The river moves through the landscape, stained brown by tannins released from surrounding trees. But beneath that darkened water lies an intricate network that few people have ever seen.

Heinerth’s current work comes at a time of growing concern over freshwater biodiversity loss and the long-term impacts of industrial development on river systems. The Ottawa River, which feeds into the St. Lawrence and eventually the Atlantic Ocean, remains one of the few relatively intact ecosystems in the region. Heinerth describes it as a place protected from human encroachment—especially when compared to nearby Lake Ontario. There, invasive species have dramatically altered the ecosystem but the water is noticeably clearer. “People see this kind of semi-clear water and assume it’s healthier,” she says. “But that’s not always the case. Not here, at least.”

Hands turn pages of a sketch book with notes and illustrations.
Notes Jill Heinerth worked in marketing and art before becoming a full-time explorer, skills she integrates into her process. © Adam Moore

“I’ve always seen myself as a translator. I take brutally tough scientific ideas and try to make them accessible.”

Jill Heinerth, Women & Allies in Climate Network Member

In Lake Ontario, invasive zebra and quagga mussels have filtered the water so efficiently that it creates a clean illusion; while simultaneously collapsing native food webs. Native mussel populations have largely disappeared. By contrast, the Ottawa River still supports a diverse range of native species, including several types of freshwater mussels that play a critical role in filtering water and maintaining ecological balance. 

Heinerth held a critical, local Hickorynut mussel in her hand—plump, heavy—examining the difference between the invasive and native species. “It’s so hard to tell what belongs here and what does not,” said Jill. “This is why people are confused about what a healthy ecosystem looks like. And why I feel the need to play that educator role in my exploration work.”

Even for someone as experienced as her, the diving here in the Whitewater Region is technically challenging, and still only partially mapped. Even today, large sections remain unexplored. For Heinerth, that uncertainty is part of the appeal. “This is a lifetime project,” she says. “You don’t just show up and understand a place like this.” 

Mussel specimens labeled and sitting on a table.
Native Mussels Examples of native mussels Jill Heinerth has found while diving the Ottawa River. © Adam Moore
Jill Heinerth with glasses and a floppy hat sitting in a boat.
Mussel Maven Cave diver, author, filmmaker, and explorer, Jill Heinerth is also a member of the Women & Allies in Climate Network. © Adam Moore
Native Mussels Examples of native mussels Jill Heinerth has found while diving the Ottawa River. © Adam Moore
Mussel Maven Cave diver, author, filmmaker, and explorer, Jill Heinerth is also a member of the Women & Allies in Climate Network. © Adam Moore

While Heinerth sounds like a scientist herself, she is not one by trade. Before becoming a full-time explorer, she worked in marketing and art. This unconventional path is what she says has shaped how she approaches her work. “I’ve always seen myself as a translator,” she said. “I take brutally tough scientific ideas and try to make them accessible.”

That role is central to her collaboration with Dr. André Martel who studies freshwater mussels. While Martel focuses on species identification and ecological analysis, Heinerth explores areas that are otherwise too difficult to document without her advanced diving skills. Underwater, she captures what she finds through video, photography, and detailed field notes, complete with impeccable sketches by her own hand. 

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Freshwater mussels, for example, are essential to the health of river systems (when they, themselves aren't invasive species). They filter water and are also “ecosystem engineers,” that support other species and create habitats. Their life cycle depends on a symbiotic relationship with fish, making them particularly sensitive to environmental disruption.

But despite their importance, many species are in decline globally. Yet here, in the Ottawa River, Heinerth has documented populations that are still thriving. “That’s rare,” she says. “And it’s something worth paying attention to. This water is proof that something very important is still right here.”

Heinerth’s work is also supported by local collaborators, including Cheryl Spotswood, a longtime resident of the region and experienced navigator of the Ottawa River. “There’s a natural cycle to this place,” Spotswood says. “If you don’t understand it, you’re not going to get very far. I’ve spent my life listening to nature, and learning how to navigate it.” Spotswood is Jill’s eyes and ears on land, helping her make these local expeditions possible. 

A woman takes measurements underwater.
Underwater Monitoring Diving with Jill Heinerth in Lake Ontario. © Adam Moore

Today, to be an explorer means to be a vehicle or a mouthpiece for conservation, protection, and restoration. I will always love going deeper and farther. But what I’m focused on now is looking closer.

Jill Heinerth, Women & Allies in Climate Network Member

Together, they are building a deeper understanding of a system that has gone under the radar and unnoticed. That understanding is becoming increasingly urgent, especially with a proposed nuclear waste disposal facility on the community’s mind. Upstream from the cave system, the build of this facility is raising concerns about potential environmental impacts to these great waterways. Heinerth has been vocal about the need to better understand the ecosystem before major decisions are made. “You can’t protect what you don’t understand,” she says. “I know that’s been said by many others before me, but it’s still holding true to this day.” 

Two women look over a map spread out on a table.
Maps Cheryl Spotswood and Jill Heinerth reviewing maps of the region’s caves, in Spotswood’s home called Moonlady Haven. © Adam Moore

After more than 8,000 dives, Heinerth’s definition of exploration is constantly shifting, and her knowledge is still expanding. While her work has historically been about discovery, now, her work is equally focused on spreading a message about the human change needed. “Today, to be an explorer means to be a vehicle or a mouthpiece for conservation, protection, and restoration. I will always love going deeper and farther. But what I’m focused on now is looking closer,” said Heinerth. 

Finding thriving mussel populations and intact ecosystems offers both a warning and a possibility, according to Heinerth. “This is what a healthy system can look like,” she says. “We can see ecosystems rebound. I’ve seen it happen. It shows us what’s still possible, how resilient nature is. But only if we choose to protect what matters. Right now.” 

About the Author

Edges of Earth is a global expedition and storytelling platform focused on ocean conservation, sustainable exploration, and environmental progress. Through longform content creation, field reporting, and scientific collaboration, the project documents people and places working toward positive environmental change around the world. In partnership with Women & Allies in Climate, Andi Cross of Edges of Earth supports storytelling and visibility efforts that elevate women leaders operating on the front lines of climate and conservation work.