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View photos of Belize |
I awake to the crow of roosters and the gentle, reassuring sound of the Caribbean sea. It’s our last full day and once again, we’ll be out on the water. First stop is Paynes Creek National Park, a 30,000 acre nature reserve that harbors habitats ranging from pine savannahs to mangrove swamps. We ply through mangroves noting the few sacrificial yellow leaves on the trees that absorb the salt water, ensuring the survival of the rest of the plant. Wil points out a number of birds including a yellow-crowned night heron, a bird which passes through the Delaware Bayshores, a major migratory stopover site, in my home state of New Jersey.
We dock at the ranger station located in the midst of a pine savannah. As the sun rises higher in the sky, I take pictures and bask in the quiet of the place. A grey fox lopes by. An iguana blends with the bark of a nearby tree. Birds chatter. Deeper in the preserve, crocodiles, howler monkeys, and the elusive jaguar roam here in an impressive display of biodiversity.
Back in the boat, we head further out, destination West Snake Caye, one of four islands off of Punta Gorda known as the Snake Cayes. Living up to its reputation, the island is home to boa constrictors. Sea birds nest here also. Some folks set out for a snake expedition, but I stay behind to beach comb and snorkel the shallow waters. I catch a glimpse of a star fish and another ray.
Our final stop is the ranger station at Port Honduras Marine Reserve, an impressive natural area of nearly 850 square kilometers of coastline, mangroves, and reef. The ranger station is nicely appointed and includes interpretive displays, an observation tower for monitoring fishing, a number of dogs, and my favorite feature: a volleyball court constructed from a captured gill net. In addition to outreach, rangers here work to stop illegal fishing that threatens the waters and fragile marine life.
Afternoon shadows deepen as we make our way back across the water to Punta Gorda. We head up the Rio Grande, a brackish tidal river that will be the site of tomorrow’s final morning kayak trip. The sun streams through the jungle canopy, and in the distance I can hear the sound of howler monkeys. We disembark at the base of a long set of stairs and a tram which leads to an upscale bone fishing lodge, another reminder of the balance between tourism and protection of this natural area.
That evening, we enjoy a live Garifuna band and local Punta dancing over home cooked rice and beans, chicken and fish, and the best spice cake I’ve ever tasted.