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« Page 1: How Wine is Sometimes Bad for Nature
Nature.org: So how are some vineyard owners mitigating some of these harmful impacts?
Jeffrey Parrish: It varies quite a bit across the world — some are certified organic, some are certified as carbon neutral, some are seeking low-resource, recyclable packaging and some are protecting land in their vicinity.
Still others are working on-farm to create more nature-friendly habitat, by planting native flora between vine rows, creating bird habitat, and restoring corridors along riverine areas.
A precious few are even committing to using certified natural cork for their wine bottle stoppers to ensure they aren't damaging Mediterranean nature in the Mediterranean Basin — and we hope that number will grow.
One of the most exciting approaches that we're starting to see right now is the commitment by farm owners to create conservation set-aside agreements — commitments to protect and restore native vegetation on their farms outside the vine rows themselves.
This practice simultaneously slows conversion and increases protection of significant proportions of biodiversity rich landscapes, thereby pulling the habitat out of crisis.
The best example of these set-asides in the wine industry comes from South Africa, where their Biodiversity and Wine Initiative is protecting more hectares through farmer set-asides than are actually under wine-grape production — while helping South Africa elevate its brand recognition as the biodiversity wine.
Nature.org: How is the Conservancy becoming involved in this issue?
Jeffrey Parrish: Right now, we're getting to know the industry's needs, perspectives, and motivations so that we can be a good partner in the future:
Wine is a global industry, and large industrial conglomerates in California might very well own and drive the changes happening in vineyards in Chile. As such, they want to work with a global organization such as the Conservancy.
Nature.org: Final question — are you a wine drinker?
Jeffrey Parrish: Indeed I am, and I enjoy wine even more today, knowing that many vineyard and winery owners are beginning to think about the natural world around them.
I'm definitely partial to wines from Mediterranean regions (with apologies to wine growers in other habitats worldwide). Chile is producing some remarkable wines today, and I'm a big fan of its Carmenere — a grape brought to Chile from France. It was predominantly decimated in France due to an insect outbreak, and now thrives pretty much only in the Mediterranean landscapes of Chile, half a world away.
I've worked previously with farmers of other crops — such as coffee and chocolate — to make conservation happen. I know it sounds strange, but getting to know the farmers and industry and where your food or drink comes from seems to make the taste even better.
Nature picture credits (top to bottom, left to right): Photo © Clinton Smith (California vineyard); Courtesy of Jeffrey Parrish (Jeffrey Parrish)
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